Which bend do you make first on a saddle?

Make the center bend first, the 45 degree one, lined up on the center of the obstruction with shrink added. Then bend the two outer 22.5 degree marks. Working center-out keeps the saddle symmetric and lets you sight the conduit so all three bends stay in one plane, which is what keeps the run from twisting off line.

What is the multiplier for a three-point saddle?

For the common 45 degree center saddle, the center-to-outer mark distance is the saddle depth times 2.5. If you run a 60 degree center with 30 degree wings, the factor changes to about 2.0. The 2.5 number is the one most electricians memorize because the 45 and 22.5 combination is the field standard.

How deep should the saddle be?

Set the saddle depth to the outside diameter of the obstruction plus a small clearance, often a quarter to half inch, so the conduit does not rub. Measure the pipe or object you are crossing, add the clearance, and use that total as your depth in the mark-distance and shrink math. Too shallow and the conduit fouls the obstruction.

Why does my saddle lean to one side?

An off-center saddle usually means the outer marks were not measured equally from center, or shrink was not added so the whole saddle shifted toward the bender. Measure 2.5 times the depth in each direction from the same center mark, add the shrink before placing that center mark, and confirm both wings are bent to the same 22.5 degrees.

BendMarks Blog

How Do You Bend a Three-Point Saddle?

Updated May 26, 2026 · 8 min read · The BendMarks Field Team

TL;DR. A three-point saddle clears a round obstruction with one center bend and two flanking bends. Make the center bend 45 degrees and the two outer bends 22.5 degrees each. Mark the center at the obstruction, then mark the outer bends a set distance away: for a 45 degree center, that distance is the saddle depth times 2.5. The center bend shrinks the run by about 3/16 inch per inch of depth.

When a conduit has to hop over a pipe or another raceway, a three-point saddle lifts it up and sets it back down in three bends. The center bend does the climbing; the two side bends straighten the run back out. Done right, the conduit drapes over the obstruction like a saddle over a horse, flat and even on both sides.

What angles do you use for a three-point saddle?

The standard three-point saddle uses a 45 degree center bend with two 22.5 degree outer bends, one on each side. The outer bends are half the center angle so the conduit returns to its original line. Some electricians run a 60 degree center with 30 degree wings for steeper clearance, but 45 with two 22.5s is the everyday combination.

The geometry is symmetric on purpose. The center bend tips the conduit up at 45 degrees; each side bend at 22.5 degrees splits that climb back to level. If the wings do not match the half-angle, the conduit leaves the saddle pointed off its original line and the run wanders. Matching angles keep the entry and exit parallel.

BendMarks app showing a three-point saddle calculation with center and outer bend marks on a labeled conduit diagram — A three-point saddle in BendMarks, with the center mark, outer marks and shrink laid out on the conduit.

How do you find the saddle mark distances?

For a 45 degree center saddle, the distance from the center mark to each outer mark is the saddle depth times 2.5. A 2 inch obstruction needs outer marks 5 inches from center on each side. The depth is how high the conduit must rise to clear the obstruction, usually its diameter plus a little room.

Start by marking the center of the saddle at the center of the obstruction, accounting for shrink. Then measure 2.5 times the depth in each direction and mark the two outer bends. Bend the center first to 45 degrees, then the two outer marks to 22.5 degrees, rotating the conduit so all three bends sit in the same plane. The 2.5 factor comes from the 45 degree center geometry.

How much does a three-point saddle shrink?

A 45 degree center three-point saddle shrinks the run by about 3/16 inch for every inch of saddle depth. A 4 inch deep saddle pulls the run in by roughly 3/4 inch. Add that shrink to the distance from your reference point to the center of the obstruction before you place the center mark, so the conduit still lands on target.

Shrink moves your center mark toward the bender, just as it does on a two-bend offset. Skip the correction and the saddle sits off-center over the obstruction or the far end falls short of its box. Because the saddle rises and returns over a short span, the shrink is modest, but on a precise run between two fixed points it is the difference between a clean fit and a fight.

Saddling over a pipe and second-guessing the 2.5 factor? BendMarks takes the obstruction depth and gives you center and outer marks with shrink already built in.

When should you use a four-point saddle instead?

Use a four-point saddle when the obstruction is wide or square, like a beam or a large duct, where the conduit must run flat across the top rather than peak over a round pipe. A four-point saddle is two offsets back to back, giving a flat crossing section. A three-point saddle suits round obstructions where a single peak clears the pipe.

The three-point version is faster, with three bends instead of four, so reach for it on conduit, water lines and other round runs. When the obstacle has a flat top the conduit needs to follow, the four-point keeps the crossing parallel to that top and avoids a sharp peak that would lift the conduit off its support. Match the saddle type to the shape you are clearing.

Key takeaways

A three-point saddle is a 45 degree center bend with two 22.5 degree wings.
Outer marks sit 2.5 times the saddle depth from the center on each side.
Mark and bend the center first, then the two outer bends in the same plane.
A 45 degree saddle shrinks about 3/16 inch per inch of depth; add it before marking.
Use a four-point saddle for wide or flat-topped obstructions instead.

Frequently asked questions

Which bend do you make first on a saddle?: Make the center bend first, the 45 degree one, lined up on the center of the obstruction with shrink added. Then bend the two outer 22.5 degree marks. Working center-out keeps the saddle symmetric and lets you sight the conduit so all three bends stay in one plane, which is what keeps the run from twisting off line.
What is the multiplier for a three-point saddle?: For the common 45 degree center saddle, the center-to-outer mark distance is the saddle depth times 2.5. If you run a 60 degree center with 30 degree wings, the factor changes to about 2.0. The 2.5 number is the one most electricians memorize because the 45 and 22.5 combination is the field standard.
How deep should the saddle be?: Set the saddle depth to the outside diameter of the obstruction plus a small clearance, often a quarter to half inch, so the conduit does not rub. Measure the pipe or object you are crossing, add the clearance, and use that total as your depth in the mark-distance and shrink math. Too shallow and the conduit fouls the obstruction.
Why does my saddle lean to one side?: An off-center saddle usually means the outer marks were not measured equally from center, or shrink was not added so the whole saddle shifted toward the bender. Measure 2.5 times the depth in each direction from the same center mark, add the shrink before placing that center mark, and confirm both wings are bent to the same 22.5 degrees.

The BendMarks Field Team
Conduit Bending & NEC Reference, BigBalli. We turn the formulas in Benfield and Ugly's Electrical References into quick, checkable field math.

BendMarks is a teaching and estimation tool, not a substitute for licensed professional judgment or the National Electrical Code. Verify clearances and bend counts against the job's specifications and the adopted code.